And… curtain! As New York fashion week’s marquee actors take their bows in the city’s newest Theatre and Stage, Scorecard notes in the final reductive tally that there’s no way American fashion’s perennial practitioner of architectural minimalism, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa, wouldn’t beat them all in the square the circle game.
Related
Spring 2011 Fashion Week
Calvin Klein Collection
Designer: Francisco Costa
http://www.nytimes.com/packages/html/style/fashionweek/runway.html#spring_2011_klein_calvin Thursday, Sept. 15, 205 West 39th Street
Photos: slide show
“Yet another minimalist celebration of simple lines, white and then more white.” (AFP)
“Easy, fluid and chic have been three of the favorite words at New York Fashion Week — and that was before the Calvin Klein collection debuted. Now, you can add sexy, smart and glamorous.” (Associated Press)
“His hyper-obsessive focus on silhouette and shape resulted in a collection for Calvin Klein that will make his particular take on minimalism the maximum statment to take away from New York’s Fashion Week.” (Daily Front Row)
“A sultry, sexy and simple (of course) collection.” (ELLEuk.com)
“The house famed for its minimalist aesthetic unveiled its sparest chic in eons.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
“Something happened this season to lighten the whole thing up and, if Francisco ever spent a sleepless night worrying that the feminine softness that bordered on flirtatiousness might be a compromise too far I think he should rest assured it did not.” (Grazia Daily)
“Mr. Costa got simpler, but no less arresting.” (Heard on the Runway)
“Everything about the show was a minimalist’s dream.” (Huffington Post)
“His whites are just right.” (On The Runway)
“Now that the fashion world has come back around to the less-is-more ethos, he’s gone and turned out a superconfident, uncompromising collection that shows everybody else how it’s done.” (Style.com)
“Some designers might dabble in minimalism, but at Calvin Klein stark subtlety is a religion. And as that sect’s high priest, creative director Francisco Costa delivered an assured, focused, and refined spring collection.” (Vogue.com)
“Basing his spring/summer 2011 collection for Calvin Klein on ’structural systems,’ designer Francisco Costa sent out a collection that looked deceptively simple, but was anything but.” (Vogue.com UK)
“Pure is the way designers like to describe either a clean look or one they feel is very true to their aesthetic, very them. Usually it comes off as fashion speak, but in the case of Francisco Costa’s spring collection for Calvin Klein, there’s really no other word.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Oscar de la Renta
Designer: Oscar de la Renta
Date and Location: Thursday, Sept. 15, 583 Park Avenue
Photos: slide show
“Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2011 collection nods back to the [Greenbriar]’s glory days, when The Platters were all the range and even bingo night was black-tie — although it’s a bit too sophisticated for today’s casino.” (Daily Front Row)
“De la Renta made his somewhat outdated, though obviously still profitable, mission all the more retro by showing a series of fifties inspired coats, cardigans, day suits and ball gowns befitting a society lady or debutante circa the Eisenhower years.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
“The red carpet luminaries and the ladies of the society circuit who he dresses will have plenty to choose from.” (Heard on the Runway)
“If there was a theme, it was prom.” (On The Runway)
“His reliance on certain posh props … made today’s somewhat uneven collection feel more old-fashioned than it might otherwise have.” (Style.com)
“De la Renta’s easy command of luxurious couture effects produced just the sort of refinements that modern swans … appreciate.” (Vogue.com)
“A sublime, strangely cinematic experience … Today, as a storm erupted outside spoiling the coiffed dos of numerous ladies in attendance, de la Renta’s immaculate ensembles for spring/summer 2011 sailed onto the catwalk, appearing larger than life. ” (Vogue.com UK)
“A beautiful and savvily controlled collection, very romantic and very Oscar.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Isaac Mizrahi
Designer: Isaac Mizrahi
Date and Location: Thursday, Sept. 15, Lincoln Center, The Theatre
Photos: slide show
“Mizrahi’s models followed the general tone of the season with clear colors, femininity and refined elegance.” (AFP)
“Isaac Mizrahi couldn’t be bothered with little details — bows, buttons, pockets and the like — for his spring styles? Mizrahi called his collection ‘IM Xerox,’ and most of the embellishment, save the sequins, were printed onto the fabric.” (Associated Press)
“He could have been saying something about how our reliance on electronic devices has changed our perception of reality, or he could have been thinking that there really is no such thing as an original idea in fashion.” (On The Runway)
“The copy concept is something of an old standard itself. Perhaps that was the point.” (Style.com)
“This man understands that his women like pretty.” (StyleList)
“With a collection this clever, a clever set would have been redundant.” (Vogue.com UK)
“Isaac Mizrahi is a copy cat and proud of it.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Naeem Khan
Designer: Naeem Khan
Date and Location: Thursday, Sept. 15, Lincoln Center, The Stage
Photos: slide show
“Was it raining? Probably. Was the front-row on its last leg after an intense week of shows? Of course. But nobody noticed — or cared — about circumstance during Naeem Khan’s rejuvenating Spring 2011 collection.” (Daily Front Row)
“Big-haired models stomped by in covet-worthy dresses featuring bright colors, flowing shapes, and intricate beading that looked to be inspired, at least in part, by some far-flung tropical destination.” (Huffington Post)
“Roberto Cavalli, are you sitting down? Naeem Khan dove into tropical waters for Spring, focusing almost exclusively on eveningwear options for the Palm Beach-to-Cannes set, with a big splash of Saint-Tropez party gear thrown in, too.” (Style.com)
“A feast of bright 70’s colors and over-the-top prints.” (The Thread)
“Glitz and glamour are always key to a Naeem Khan collection. And this season he gave it a terrific safari twist.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Ralph Lauren
Designer: Ralph Laurern
Date and Location: Thursday, Sept. 15, Skylight Studio, 275 Hudson Street
Photos: slide show
“Ralph Lauren brought all the glamour that the Wild West probably never had to the runway.” (AFP)
“Ralph Lauren’s romance with the American West continues.” (Associated Press)
“Welcome to the Ralph Lauren ranch, where the buffalo roam and the cowboys and girls are the chicest you’ll find in the American West (or any region, for that matter).” (Daily Front Row)
“Despite a lone inspiration on the New York schedule, Lauren ticked off many of the recurring trends seen so far.” (ELLEuk.com)
“Raw and refined.” (FabSugar)
“It was luxe Western wear for the city woman with a summer home in Santa Fe.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
“A Navajo/safari hybrid.” (Grazia Daily)
“For Spring, Mr. Lauren will take us back to about 1890 –- cowgirls and Indians, but not in the bow-and-arrows sense.” (Heard on the Runway)
“Of all his expressions of Americana, of all his appropriating its regional and historic garb, the Western motif is really where Mr. Lauren shines.” (On The Runway)
“A fine show.” (The New York Times)
“A smooth gallop from start to finish.” (Style.com)
“This pure yee-haw moment bordered on costumey, but could certainly enchant the right frontierswoman.” (StyleList)
“A country dance of formal prairie dresses and blouses in a whitewashed palette, with over-the-top-Texas longhorns and golden sparkle peppered in.” (The Thread)
“Lauren do-si-doed with a very Ralph, very American muse — the cowgirl — putting together a collection that was full of prairie romance.” (Vogue.com)
“Would look as at home on Rodeo Drive as it would on the range.” (Vogue.com UK)
“Ralph Lauren showed one of his best women’s collections in memory.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Related Posts
Resort Scorecard Stella McCartney Wins!
Scorecard Michael Kors Wins!
Scorecard Women’s Spring Fashion 2009
Scorecard Calvin Klein Wins!
Scorecard Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Et Al.
.
No comments:
Post a Comment